Vegan Sushi with Log Grown Shiitake

This vegan sushi was created by Chef Koushu Matsusaka of Sate Hitsuji ni Modorutoshiyou, located inside WINE LAB near the south exit of Takaoka Station in Toyama Prefecture.

The star ingredient is a thick slice of log grown shiitake mushroom, variety No. 115, cultivated at marufarm in the satoyama landscape of Aoidani in Imizu City.

The mushrooms are wrapped in aluminum foil and gently steamed at a low temperature, then briefly simmered in a sauce made with soy sauce, mirin, and local sake, Sanshouraku Yamahai Junmai Yamasatoho from Nanto City. A spicy accent is added using a fermented chili seasoning made from snow aged chili peppers. The finished shiitake is placed atop hand formed sushi rice.

The rice is a blend of naturally cultivated Isehikari rice and ancient red rice grown at marufarm, giving the sushi depth and character beyond the topping alone.

“I want people to really feel the bite of log-grown shiitake,” Chef Matsusaka says. True to his words, the texture stands out, and the more you chew, the more umami slowly spreads from the thick mushroom.

For pairing, the chef recommends the same sake used in the sauce, Sanshouraku Yamahai Junmai Yamasatoho, a sake with rich umami and gentle sweetness that complements the shiitake beautifully.

Restaurant Information

Sate Hitsuji ni Modorutoshiyou
Address: 5-4-7 Ekinan, Takaoka City, Toyama Prefecture (inside WINE LAB.)

Chef Profile

Chef Koushuu Matsusaka was raised in a family deeply connected to food culture: his paternal relatives were fishermen, his maternal side farmers, and his great-uncle a head chef of Japanese cuisine. Immersed in rich food traditions from an early age, he began helping at his great-uncle’s restaurant around the age of 10.

After graduating from high school, he studied agriculture in the United States. Upon returning to Japan, he gained experience at Italian restaurants and specialty Japanese tea cafés, among others. After working with an executive chef on course development at a hotel in Shiga Prefecture, he relocated to Toyama, where he founded Sate Hitsuji ni Modorutoshiyou, a restaurant designed to enrich everyday life through food.

Photo by Kenta Nakashima