Benizuwai Crab Candy

This sweet was conceived by Chef Fumiya Higuchi of the auberge AKAMA TOYAMA, located in the Shinminato district of Imizu City, Toyama Prefecture.

The candy is made by gently setting a thin layer of concentrated stock extracted from the shells of locally caught benizuwai (red snow) crab, combined with red rice vinegar and syrup derived from rice. When cracked and eaten, it releases a crisp, candy-like texture. The initial sweetness is followed by layered flavors: the deep umami of benizuwai crab, a lingering finish and a quiet acidity from the vinegar.

The word, sushi, is generally understood to originate from a Japanese term, sushi, meaning “sour” and is believed to have begun as a fermented food. Early forms of sushi, known as narezushi, were made by fermenting fish and rice through lactic acid fermentation, resulting in a distinctly sour dish. Over time, as fermentation was shortened or skipped, vinegar was introduced as a substitute for acidity, giving rise to what is now known as hayazushi, including pressed sushi and nigiri sushi.

“As long as it uses seafood, vinegar and a rice-based ingredient, it falls within the category of sushi for me,” Chef Higuchi says. By that definition, benizuwai crab candy does not stray from sushi at all. True to the word’s origin, sweetness comes first, followed by a gentle, lingering acidity.

Conceived with the question of how to express the umami extracted from crab shells within the context of sushi, this unconventional creation is both playful and precise. Its high level of completion speaks to the depth and flexibility of sushi culture itself.

Restaurant Information
AKAMA TOYAMA
Address: 1-3 Chuo-machi, Imizu City, Toyama Prefecture
Reservations required. Please check the official website for details.

Chef Profile

Fumiya Higuchi was born and raised around food while helping his father, a traditional Japanese cook. He formally entered the culinary world at 15, beginning his career at the luxury ryokan Kitanokaze Saryo in Hakone. He later joined Roppongi Kappo Ikkon, where he served as sous-chef. Today, he is the head chef at AKAMA TOYAMA, while also pursuing a wide range of culinary projects, including private and traveling dining experiences.

Photo by Kenta Nakashima