Kurozukuri Sushi Roll

This sushi roll was created by Chef Fumiya Higuchi of the auberge AKAMA TOYAMA, located in the Shinminato area of Imizu City, Toyama Prefecture.

Fresh bigfin reef squid landed in Toyama Bay is finely chopped and pounded, then mixed with squid liver and ink. Through a fermentation process, the mixture is matured into kurozukuri, a beloved local delicacy traditionally enjoyed as a sake snack or rice topping, which is then rolled together with seasoned sushi rice.

Free from any fishy odor, the kurozukuri has a mild salinity and a pleasantly firm, slightly crunchy texture. As an accent within the roll, it pairs well with the tangy sushi rice. With each bite, layers of flavor unfold: gentle acidity, the natural sweetness of squid and a subtle aroma of the sea.

In Toyama, kurozukuri has long been a familiar local dish, typically enjoyed as a sake accompaniment, served over rice, or poured over with hot green tea. Documents from the Kaga Domain period already record it as a regional specialty. Variations using firefly squid from Toyama Bay are also well known.

Kurozukuri is so deeply rooted in everyday life that it can be found in supermarkets, department stores, and souvenir shops throughout the prefecture. By incorporating this familiar food into sushi, rather than serving it in the usual ways, Chef Higuchi says he arrived at “a new kind of sushi roll that feels surprising, yet somehow inevitable.”

Restaurant Information
AKAMA TOYAMA
Address: 1-3 Chuo-machi, Imizu City, Toyama Prefecture
Reservations required. Please check the official website for details.

Chef Profile

Fumiya Higuchi was born and raised around food while helping his father, a traditional Japanese cook. He formally entered the culinary world at 15, beginning his career at the luxury ryokan Kitanokaze Saryo in Hakone. He later joined Roppongi Kappo Ikkon, where he served as sous-chef. Today, he is the head chef at AKAMA TOYAMA, while also pursuing a wide range of culinary projects, including private and traveling dining experiences.

Photo by Kenta Nakashima